Wednesday, November 29, 2006

Chile - Road to Atacama

The road to San Pedro Atacama (Atacama) in Chile is quite a scenic trip, passing mountains of over 4000m, crossing two border controls (which are quite annoying by the way). The landscape is sometime barren as you would imagine on the moon.


A small salt lake on our way.


Some parts of the road were leading basically through dessert.


The closer we got to Chile the dryer the land around us. It seemed that the Argentinian side was much greener and the Chilean side was much more a dessert. Later we found out that it only rains about 15 mm per year here. I guess that explains why. Most of the water coming from the mountains actually travel subterranean.

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Argentina - Salta The city

Salta is a beautiful little city full of colonial style buildings. Below find some impressions of the churches and buildings as well as a picture taken from Cerro St. Bernadino. I just loved hanging out in the cafes around the market square, reading, writing in my journal or just watching people.


The church.














A photo of the city from the top of Cerro St. Bernadino, which can be reached on foot or by gondola.

Sunday, November 26, 2006

Argentina - Salta I

One my first day in Salta I participated in an excursion called "Tren a las Nubes", which supposedly should track the path of this famous train ride between Argentina and Chile. Of course no travel guide includes the information that the train is not running anymore. They closed it a couple of months ago to renovate the tracks and the trains. The plan is to open next winter, however given what I have seen (nothing) I highly doubt that it will be reopened any time soon. Unfortunately like so many other things in Argentina there was no maintenance performed for a long time. The tracks look completely worn out and abandoned. Anyways, we were three tourists, two girls from France (Severine and Claudine) and our guide in a little Renault Kangoo. We started out at 7:00 am in the morning.



Our first stop was Pumamarca and the "Cerro de los siete colores" (The seven colored rock), as seen above.



Next we went to the little village of Pumamarca. Nothing really exciting here, an old church and a arts & crafts market targeted at tourists. Not to mention the fact that I got ripped off in the cafe, but noticed too late.


Pumamarca has a lot of little dirt roads, no pavements. Due to the ever increasing number of tourists there is a lot of construction and I would not be surprised if the village will use its charme soon.


Our next milestone was a mountain pass reaching over 4000m. It was a little road winding up the mountain, our driver speeding a little and passing trucks and buses on the way up. You could definitely feel the change in elevation.


What goes up, must come down ..... We were approaching the salt flats of Salta (in the background), straight down.


There are a few workers who dig these squares to produce pure salt. The salt on the surface is pretty "polluted" with dirt and other things, so they dig these squares 4 x 2 meters approximately and use the sun to evaporate the water. Upon finishing of this process there remains 97% pure salt.


Simple tables made of salt rock .... but it looked kind of mystic .....


Of course you can not dig salt all day long, so some of the workers picked up some skills and carve art work out of salt blocks, e.g. little llamas and other things. They are completely wrapped up in cloth as protection against the strong sun and the reflections from the salt surface.


A cemetery on a hill top, people around here that you are closer to the goods on a mountain top, that's why many sacrifices, holy places and cemeteries are on mountains.



Riding on a dirt road through "nothing" .... however there were lots of llamas and also donkeys.


Not to forget the Vicunas (same family like the lamas, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicu%C3%B1a for more details) that we saw as well.





Finally we reached a little town were we had lunch, I do not quite remember the name. We were an attraction for all the little kids in town and everybody tried to sell us something.



Next we explored some old pre-Incan ruins on top of a mountain, controlling access to three valleys at the same time. There are a lot of speculations why the city was abandoned, but no facts.

The cactus are pretty much the only thing that grows on the hill sides. It produces a fruit that is eatable, the wood can be used as fire wood or create art work.


Finally we reached the train tracks of the "Tren a las nubes", see more info at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tren_a_las_nubes . The route with all its bridges (29 of them), tunnels (21), viaducts and protection against land slides and water is amazing. Also the zig zag approach that has been used to master the necessary gains in elevation. Here you see Captain Adventure crossing ''La Polvorilla'', a curved viaduct which is 224 meters long and 70 meters high.

Friday, November 24, 2006

Argentina - The Road to Salta

A day with another long, long bus ride was ahead of me. This time the departure was at least in the evening, so I was hoping to find some sleep somehow. The ride was scheduled for 16 hours .... oh what a lovely thing. Before I left for the bus station I had a beer with an Austrian and a Canadian fellow at the hostel and after taking 2 Melatonin to numb me I was actually able to fall asleep pretty quickly. Well, until 7:00 am when the steward woke me up for "breakfast", I could not believe that. Oh well, I missed the sun rise this time, but took some photos until we arrived in Salta.





We drove through very green, lush mountains on our way to Salta. Not much traffic though.




We had this little truck in front of us transporting either bamboo or sugar cane, I was not quite sure. The bus driver almost pushed the poor guy off the road.



The closer we got to Salta the more rigid the nature became, bare hills endless roads.




Several times I tried to capture people riding on horses just next to the streets, finally I was quick enough.

Thursday, November 23, 2006

Argentina - Mendoza

On my first day in Mendoza I went on an excursion to the mountains. One of the stops was to enjoy the view of the "Aconcagua", the highest mountain in America (see Wikipedia for more detail http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aconcagua ). It was hard to judge or tell how big the mountain really is, because we have simply been too far away.




However, the "Aconcagua" with its 6,962 m (22,841 feet) elevation is quite an amazing view.





There was also a train running from Argentina to Chile, but for some reasons like in so many other places in South America trains are being abandoned as a mode of transportation, replaced by trucks. You would think that with the large distances trains would be the cheapest and fastest way to transport goods. According to our guide there are plans to refurbish and reactivate the tracks.

On our way home our driver was not only speeding, but also passing in a no passing zone. A truck was blocking his view and so he was not able to see the cop. They negotiated for quite a while, then went behind the bus where we could not see them. What do you think happened?




The next day I did a wine tasting tour. Our first stop was the "Weinert Winery". Some rich Brazilian guy bought a run down and abandoned winery in Mendoza in 1975 and turned it into one of the largest in the country. This barrel was manufactured in 1940 in Germany and shipped to Argentina. It holds 40,000 liters, approximately 60,000 bottles of wine.



Next we visited a small winery. I watched the guy spraying the vines with pesticides, the only protection he was wearing was a raincoat.



The grape crusher in the small winery. Their Malbecs and Cabernets were really good.


Our last visit was to a distillery. They make awesome, fruit infused spirits as well as Pisco and Grappa. The distillery was located in a very unique, modern building (see below.





































Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Argentina - The road to Mendoza

After a great time in Bariloche it was time to leave for my next stop, Mendoza. Not sure how I would survive 18 hours on the bus, but I guess it is all part of the traveling experience. The seat was really comfortable, however there was simply no room for my legs. The weather was beautiful and so I could enjoy the amazing, ever changing landscape. Please note that all the photos I took were made through the windows of the bus, so the quality might not be the best.


Simply loved the yellow traffic sign and the deep blue lake in the background.


No idea which area we passed through, but it was just beautiful.



Somehow I made it through the night and woke up just in time for the sun rise. Lovely!




Just before we reached Mendoza we had this spectacular view of the snow covered mountains (Cordillera Blanca), including the highest mountain in America (North and South).

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Argentina - Bariloche II

Another sunny day .... I had a hard time getting up in time since we ended up drinking a bit too much the night before. I had met Gary again who was also on the Navimag. Quite interesting how I keep running into folks all the time who did the boat trip with me. We planned to do a hike to "Refugio Lopez". At first we needed to take a bus and since we had no schedule we had to wait almost 2 hours. It was funny, according to the other bus drivers our bus was always "just behind them", "would come in 10 minutes", "would arrive in 30 minutes" or "would pick us up in 5 minutes". Well, the guy with the "5 minutes" was right, unfortunately we had waited over 1 1/2 hours already. Nevertheless we made it there and started our hike immediately since we only had 5 hours for the round trip, so we could make the 6:00 pm bus back to town.





The hike did not give us any time to adjust. Immediately we had to climb on a steep single trail, sometimes it was so steep we had to crawl on all fours .... but it was fun being challenged and we were rewarded by amazing views.




Well, you have seen this before, but it is so beautiful I needed to show it again :-)




"Captain Adventure" close to the peak. After almost 90 minutes we reach the snow level, which made the final ascent to the "Refugio Lopez" a bit challenging. Foolish me did not put sun lotion on my legs .... the snow reflected the sun and provided a nice burn.





Gary and me at the refugio. We made the advertised 4 hour hike in less than 2 hours and relaxed at the top, enjoying the amazing views.



The bad weather earlier in the week had a positive effect. All the mountains were covered in fresh snow.


The last evening in Bariloche. We had dinner at "Kandahar", a great local restaurant. With me are Gary as well as Andy and Cath (whom I have also met on the Navimag). We had awesome food, great wine (plenty) and a lot of fun.

Saturday, November 18, 2006

Argentina - Bariloche I

Bariloche or Braziloche (how the Argentinians call it due to the fact that there are so many Brazilian tourists) is a very touristy city surrounded by amazing mountain peaks and beautiful lakes. The city has everything to offer that a tourist can only imagine, lots of shops, chocolate stores and many good restaurants and bars. Since it was off season there were not too many tourists, but in the "summer" the streets must be packed and no rooms are available.
The area reminded me a little of Lake Tahoe, I can not necessarily explain why, just a feeling.




The horrible weather from the day before was forgotten. We had beautiful blue skies and sun shine, the temperature was around 65 degrees. At the hostel "Marco Polo Inn" I met John, Brad and Nina (which I have met on the Navimag) at breakfast and they invited me to join them on a bike ride. We took a bus to a refugio nearby where we picked up our bikes and then went shopping for lunch before we took off on the "Cirquito Chico", a 32 km trip around the lakes and up and down the mountains.




"Captain Adventure" and his ride at the Llao Llao hotel and the lake in the background. At this point we still had energy and joked around. Well, that changed a little later ....



The plan was to take a photo of me with the lake and mountains in the back drop. Then this dog showed up and John just kept taking shots of me trying to make the dog leave .... he just would not go away ....



Unbelievable views and amazing colours, especially with the snow covered mountains in the back.


More views ..... just enjoy.



The next day I went on an excursion with a group of people. We did parts of the tour I biked the day before, but then we also visited the ski resort of Bariloche, surprisingly they have quite a few good runs here, as documented by the map below. Probably boring for Shana, Scottie and Fabio, but more than sufficient for me :-)